The Right Tools
Originally posted 10/31/2008
Have you ever tried to go on a hike in the mountains wearing flip flops?
What about going swimming in a goose-down jacket, ski boots, and a snow suit?
I know, I've got it: Would you reach into a hot oven to remove a pizza with no mitts on???
By now, you're probably shaking your head and wondering what's gotten into me. Well, I want to talk about tools - dog training tools to be exact.
If you wouldn't go for a hike wearing flip-flops; wouldn't go for a swim in ski gear; wouldn't reach into an oven without mitts, WHY on earth would you try to train your dog without the proper equipment?
There are 3 issues to cover when it comes to good dog training equipment:
1. Relevance (which equipment fits the results you want)
2. Timing (when to use it)
3. Quality/Type (what to use)
Let's take a look at relevance. When I talk about equipment relevance, I'm talking about the training goal you have in mind, as well as the temperament of your dog.
When I'm training a toy poodle to be focused on me, I used a light long line and a slip collar. When I'm training a German shepherd to do protection work, I use muzzles and agitation gear, and my helper uses a bite sleeve or other protective equipment.
I'd no more put an agitation harness on the poodle, than I'd put my underwear on my head! Yet, time and time again I see owners trying to train their dogs with the wrong equipment. If you're not sure what to use, ASK a professional. And be sure you know how to use the equipment properly. Extreme physical and psychological damage can be done to a dog if you don't know how to use your equipment.
Let's talk about Timing next. Often, clients come to me with one idea in mind: "How soon can my dog be off-leash?" My mental response is: "How soon do you want to reach into that oven without your mitts?"
Well, if the oven is turned off and cool, you can reach in anytime. But if it's hot, you just might want to be proactive and put your mitts on first.
How does this apply to your dog? Simple. If under certain circumstances, your dog is "cool" then you can probably safely begin to work your basic obedience commands in those circumstances with a short training tab instead of a 6 ft. leash. But, if you're in a situation where you anticipate the dog will be "hot" (over-excited, unfocused, aggressive, fearful, dominant, etc.), then you need to put on your oven mitts (leash & collar) BEFORE encountering that situation. Your oven mitts do you no good if you put them on AFTER reaching in and grabbing the hot pizza pan.
This rule applies for the rest of the dog's life. Just like you will ALWAYS need your oven mitts to reach into a hot oven, you will ALWAYS need to use a leash and collar (or other training device) when first working your dog around 'hot' situations.
Does that mean 'hot' situations will always be 'hot' for the dog? Not necessarily. With time and good training techniques, a lot of the hot situations should turn into cool ones.
Ok, what about the Quality and Type of equipment? News Flash, Folks: Bigger doesn't always mean better. I see it all the time. Clients come in with double-ply, 2 inch wide nylon leashes when they first see me. These 'extra tough, extra thick' leashes usually offer absolutely no extra control over the dog. Instead, they are bulky and hard to hang onto, rough on the hands, and generally make leash work MORE DIFFICULT for the handler.
For most dogs, I recommend a 5/8" nylon or leather leash. Anything wider is too difficult to hold onto. If you are using a quality nylon or leather leash, the dog isn't going to break it, even if it's only 5/8" wide. The problem with the really tiny leashes, except on very small dogs, is that they also can cause problems with grip. So, unless you have a really small dog, a good 5/8" wide nylon or leather leash is best.
Leashes also need to be 6 ft long. Not 20 ft. Not 4 ft. They need to be 6 ft long. It's the ideal length to allow proper control on a working walk, as well as enough slack to keep the dog comfortable.
A short, thick leash might make YOU feel more secure, but it's making your dog more dependent on the constant tug of the leash...because it's so heavy and short, he can always feel it! If your goal is eventual off-leash obedience, get a 5/8" X 6' nylon or leather leash.
How about collars? I work most dogs on 2.5 or 3mm slip or 'choke' collars. The length totally depends on the size of the dog. Here again, quality is really important. Cheap choke chains break. It's as simple as that. And the last thing you want while working your dog is for your equipment to fail. Regardless of whether I'm using a choke collar or a prong collar, I recommend only the herm sprenger and titan brands. If you are looking for a training collar, don't settle for anything less.
Depending on a dog's needs, I may also recommend electronic equipment, head collars, muzzles, etc. Again, do your research on these different items. If you're not sure what to purchase, just ask me, I'll help out!
Here's a list of absolutely useless and/or dangerous dog training equipment:
- most walking harnesses
- all chain leashes
- all retractable leashes
- all retractable leashes
- did I mention retractable leashes
- oh, let's not forget: retractable leashes
And that's about it, from this end of the leash.
Jennifer Hime is the Owner & Dog Training Director at Front Range K9 Academy in Wheat Ridge, CO. She can be reached at k9counselor.com
